Supetar
Supetar, located opposite Split on the northern coast of the island of Brac and is its largest town and administrative centre, is the main sea gateway that receives most ferries from the mainland. Thanks to its status and well-developed infrastructure, it is convenient to explore the whole of Brač.
How to get there
The easiest way to get to Supetar is by ferry from Split, which runs many times during the day. From other settlements on the island, Supetar can be reached by regular buses, but it is more convenient to get there by car on the local road network. Motorists should be warned that the town is small, there are a lot of narrow streets, where an ordinary lorry cannot pass, and cars have nowhere to separate. Therefore, there is a lot of one-way traffic, which may not be indicated in navigators. The locals drive according to their historical rules, knowing which alleys are one-way.
For links to ferry carriers, see the end of the article.
What to see
The old town of Supetara, where historical buildings have been preserved, is tiny and its jewel is the Parish Church of the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary (župna crkva Navještenja Marijina), built in the 18th century on the foundations of an earlier basilica.
župna crkva Navještenja Marijina
Nearby you can see early Christian mosaics from the 6th century. There is a school near the church and the square, which is why there are so many schoolchildren in the centre if you are holidaying in September.
Supetar Riva – promenade
Strolling along the Riva promenade, filled with cafes and shops, the eye is drawn to the old stone houses.
The Supetar Cemetery (groblje Supetar), located on the picturesque peninsula of St. Nicholas (poluotok Sv. Nikole) next to the church of the same name, deserves special attention.
Supetar Cemetery
This place is notable not only for its sea views, but also for the many impressive family crypts and mausoleums that showcase the skills of local stonecutters. The most famous is the monumental mausoleum of the Petrinović family (mauzolej obitelji Petrinović), a family of immigrants from Chile who were originally from Brač.
Petrinović family mausoleum
The mausoleum is the work of self-taught sculptor Toma Rosandić. The cemetery combines historical burials, which are monuments of architecture and sculpture.
Art lovers will be interested in the Gallery of Ivan Rendić (Galerija Ivan Rendić), one of the most famous Croatian sculptors of the 19th and 20th centuries, who was born in Supetar. Incidentally, he originally accepted the order for the construction of the tomb, and considered it his life's work. But later the order was handed over to Tom Rosandić.
Beaches in Supetar
There are several bathing-friendly beaches in and around the city limits. To the left of the harbour is the main pebbly town beach Banj (plaža Banj). The water near the harbour is not very clear, but the entrance to the water is not difficult. The beach extends to the Cape of St. Nicholas, where the local cemetery mentioned earlier is located.
Supetar beach Banj
At the far end of Banj beach from the harbour, the infrastructure for children is most developed, with its own shallow lagoon with warmer water, various inflatable entertainments and cafes.
Supetar beach Three Bridges
If we go further along the promenade and round the cape, we will come to the beach Tri mosta with good clear water and comfortable entrances to the water. At the end of the promenade, the Vela Luka beach and the bay of the same name on the edge of the town are nestled among the pine forests.
Supetar beach Vela Luka
The cove is shallow, with an unusually white sandy bottom in places, and the water is very warm, especially at low tide.
Supetar beach Vela Luka
To the right of the harbour is the Akapulko beach (plaža Akapulko), popular with the local youth. Schoolchildren come there for a swim. Autumn in Croatia is warm. The place is more noisy, with the eponymous konoba on the shore. There is nowhere to hide from the sun on the beach. And the harbour is close by. In my opinion, this place is more suitable for morning and evening swimming. Further away from it is Vrilo beach with a bistro-pizzeria of the same name. We once saw a wedding here.
Where to eat
Along the Supetar seafront there are many restaurants and traditional taverns, called konoba, offering Dalmatian specialities, fresh fish and seafood, as well as the more familiar pizza and pasta. In the old part of town we liked the Apinelo pizzeria.
Apart from great pizza, it made delicious salads and served interesting local wines. We met two Croatian entrepreneurs – they have been renting this pizzeria for many years for the beach season (approximately from May to October). One guy is the chef, the other is the bartender and waiter. When the season is over, they rest for about a month and move to the Austrian Alps for the winter ski season. There they are usually employed in restaurants or bars. In the spring they return to Croatia again.
But if you holiday in Supetar not in peak season, the part near the coast will not work. By the way on the seafront near the harbour there is a very democratic bistro where they cook fried small fish like Black Sea “mullet” or Bulgarian “tsatsa”. There are many bars on the seafront, but they don't offer food, only drinks. But near the sea station (it is located to the right of the harbour) bakeries and cafes are already working in the early morning. And while the whole town is still asleep, the shops are closed and the tables outside in the cafes are just starting to be wiped down by the sleepy staff, you can already have a fresh burek (puff pastry pie with different fillings: cheese or meat) with yoghurt or a slightly bitter coffee, a mixture of Arabica and Robusta. Why a little bitter? Because pure Arabica is rare in Croatia. And while you drink your morning coffee near the pier, you can watch fishing schooners returning from the sea, mooring, unloading part of the catch for the locals, who are already looking out for them to buy fresh fish. Tourists who have chosen a holiday in an apartment, not a hotel, also visit this small market to treat themselves to fish, which in restaurants will cost 3-5 times more for a meal. If the catch is successful, the schooners will soon sail to Split and sell their catch to wholesalers there.
Entertainment
Supetar is a quiet town, but the usual coastal activities are available. There are water sports on the beaches, such as catamaran or kayak hire. You can hire a bicycle and explore the surrounding area. It is always a pleasure to stroll along the lively seafront and there are playgrounds for children. For adults, there are night bars. Cultural events and concerts are often organised during the summer season.
Among the large shops in Supetar there is a chain supermarket Lidl and a Tommy hypermarket.
Useful links: Ferry Brac (Supetar) – Split
For the timetable, see the carriers' websites:
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